A bicycle has very few components.
Now, each part is also made into components, so even amateurs can get it in shape by properly tightening the screws.
But it's no good to really demonstrate 100% performance for a long time.
First of all, you have to set up the bike taking into consideration the physical strength, flexibility and body type of the rider.
There is no machine that produces great performance without human intervention.
Even with a computer-controlled F1 engine, mechanics manually adjust the car while driving, right? I think it's even more difficult with a bicycle because the human engine is about, but it's sensitive and affected by emotions. That's why I'd like to at least make a bicycle that has a human engine mounted on it suitable for that person.
Measurement & Position (Must be done for those who purchase all finished vehicles)
First of all, I don't put much importance on the frame size, especially for the first bike that I build with Bell Equip (although I do fit it properly).
First, just measure your height, inseam, and each size.
This is because the flexibility of the human body changes as it continues to exercise. I don't know how long it will take until then, but anyway, the range of movement of the body will definitely change. If we were to set the maximum saddle height (a theoretical value that allows a human to turn the pedals and produce maximum output) on the first one, the hips would move left and right and it would be impossible to turn the pedals. Stem length is the same. (Professionals look bigger even if they are the same height because their joints have a large range of motion.)
First of all, please ride small in a comfortable position. Set the saddle low and the handlebars close and high.
Positions also get bigger as you gain experience, but I think there are individual differences in whether or not you go that far.
At that point, we first ask you about your goals and how you want to ride, and then we make judgments to some extent based on your age and experience.
The most important thing is to put out the best position of the person on the bike.
What about assembly? (The best work for the elite of the SSC group pro team!)
Assembly is serious work.
I'm used to it, so it looks easy, but it's easy to tighten the screws, but it's quite difficult to decide if that position is good.
Including the compatibility with the angle and gear ratio frame, you can't be careless unexpectedly.
As for the frame, which is the basis of it, we often make adjustments such as threading the BB part, chamfering, press-fitting the head, and inserting the bearing.
Some of the frames are miserable, and there are times when the screw facets are abundant, so this work must be done without fail.
The directly imported C4 has a beautiful shape, but the paint is thick and BB. If the F mechanism is not processed, it will not attach well, but the finished product is
It becomes a "machine" that is completely different from a bicycle that is just assembled. Beautiful and fast. It's just a "machine".
The wires are also designed to withstand our original service "car wash". This is not good for wires because it uses water, but it rains all day long on Pro Road, so since it is a vehicle that runs outside, it is constructed to be as resistant to water as possible. Compared to a product with just a wire passed through, the difference in the life of the lightness of the wire pull is about 3 times.
That Gore-Tex wire has had no trouble for a year, but it is assembled so that it can maintain about 60% of its performance.
Do you have an aftermarket? (For SSC group)
After completion, we will deliver it to the customer, but I believe that the true difference in performance can be demonstrated from here, and this is where our work begins.
And I think the evaluation will be decided.
First of all, new cars have loose screws. No matter how tightly you tighten it, it will never come loose. First month car wash. Thoroughly wash away heavy grease and metal powder that appears in large quantities at first. This metal powder causes quite a lot of troubles. Then check all screws. Remove the stretch of the transmission wire, etc., and adjust again.
After that, even if you don't adjust too much, there won't be much of a problem, but the adjustment is free for three years no matter how many times you do it.
Free car wash and adjustment are basically issued from motorcycles over 50,000 yen, and are issued according to the amount. For example, in the case of 500,000 bikes, 10 free rides (30,000 yen worth)
The starting size also changes gradually, so you can check it each time or when you feel like it and run in the best position at that time. The work is free for one year. (Limited to SSC group finished cars)