hand assembled wheel
Here we are talking about hand-built wheels in general.
Today, there are kangumi (wheels that are shaped from the beginning) and hand assembling, which is made by threading spokes (thin wires) one by one.
The advantage of hand lacing is that there are many spokes, so it is easy to adjust each spoke, and even if the rim (outer ring) is slightly bent, it can often be corrected before it can be ridden.
Those who ride for the first time often break it on steps, etc., and the first one is often hand-assembled.
First, thread the spokes through the hub.
The thickness of the spokes is indicated by number, and the smaller the number, the thicker the spoke. No. 14 is thicker than No. 15. I've never actually seen No. 1, but since it's the first one, I think it probably exists.
Spoke thickness has an important relationship with the strength of the rim, and the stronger the rim, the stronger the spokes required. If one of them is weak, especially if the spokes are weak, it may cause breakage or create a wheel with no stiffness.
Hard anodized rims are also strong, and are much more resistant to impacts such as holes in actual races.
The more holes there are, the stronger it is, but I think it's best to consult with someone who has experience because it will be heavier and the spokes will be stronger. It is easy to think that the number of holes in recent complete sets is small, but in fact there are about 24 holes, so there is not much difference from the lightly assembled 28H.
Each company has different ways of assembling, but the method of assembling with Bell Equip is the so-called reverse Italian, and this is also a method of assembling that is hard to break from experience.
I can say now that the Italian set is strong, but the free spoke side is easy to break, and if the tensioned side breaks, it will not be able to run.
On the other hand, the reverse Italian has a weak point that the other side of the free is loose, and it needs to be checked from time to time, but it does not develop into a big trouble.
When I was in the team in Switzerland, I managed all the wheels, so it can be said that it was the result of trying various things.
Once you decide how to put it together, put it together. After roughly assembling, apply tension and adjust to some extent at this point. If you stretch too much, the rim will be strained and it will be difficult to adjust.
After that, I mainly remove the vertical shake and forcibly extend the spokes.
Wheels that don't do this tend to stretch the spokes, and the center gradually moves to the right. No matter how much the center is out at the time of completion, it will change in a blink of an eye, so I realize that the metal will stretch.
After that, take the vertical shake, and take the horizontal shake while watching the tension.
Never use a tension meter on the end.
If you increase the tension of one spoke that crosses, the tension of the adjacent spoke will also increase.
If the pulling side is not loose, it may break when braking.
The roundness of the rim is not uniform, so it cannot be touched even if the tension is uniform.
Numbers are important, but proper hardness comes out depending on the rim and hub.
After that, let it blend in several times and it will be completed.
Wheels vary greatly depending on the rider's weight, leg strength, and where they run, but for practice purposes, I think a strong, hard wheel is best.
Good rims seem to be getting rare these days, but Mavic's Paris Roubaix, which doesn't spread out even if it falls into a hole, was great. The reason why this rim was so popular is because of its stability at high speeds, and the fact that it can still be used even if it falls over a hole. It may be that the width is wide and the ride is comfortable.
Some people talk a lot about the accuracy of wheel runout, but Endo believes that there is no problem if the spokes are uniform and strong, even if there is some runout. And I think it boils down to being durable and easy to maintain.